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WINE COUNTRY NEWSLETTER
WINE COUNTRY NEWSLETTER
WINE COUNTRY NEWSLETTER
November 2009
A Mad Dash to Eataly
I didn’t make that one up. Check their web site:
http://www.eatalytorino.it/eatalytorino/welcome_eng.lasso
The vegetable section and restaurant at Eataly
An invitation from Paolo Domeneghetti, president of Domaine Select Wine Estates, to visit Fontanafredda and Eataly was too much to miss last week so I was off to Italy for 3 days. Spending two days flying for only three days there would have been nuts if it weren’t for the unique aspects of both visits. Paolo assembled a crew of American wholesalers, retailers and restaurateurs to introduce the new Fontanafredda estate and winery and get a spectrum of opinions on the changes and innovations.
After arriving in Italy we were taken to our hotel in Santa Vittoria d’Alba, a strategic hilltop town from which you can see the surrounding plain for miles. The town reached moderate fame through the movie the Secret of Santa Vittoria starring Anthony Quinn. After a quick shower and lunch we were off to visit the estate.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Secret_of_Santa_Vittoria
Santa Vittoria d'Alba
Fontanafredda was a hunting preserve of King Vittorio Emmauele II that he gave to his mistress. Their son turned it into a successful wine estate but third generation syndrome took effect as his son reduced it to bankruptcy and a bank took possession in 1931. With a bank running the show the bottom line became the focus and the wines became more pedestrian. That changed when Oscar Farinetti took control. The vineyards were in top locations but needed work, as did the cellars. A major infusion of capital has updated the equipment and vineyard manager, Danilo Drocco, has made major improvements in the vineyards. The changes show in the wines as they are stellar again.
www.fontanafredda.it
Fontannafredda Estate
Oscar Farinetti is an avid proponent of biodynamic farming in wines and food and has teamed with Luca Bassigo to create Eataly. The warehouse sized store and restaurant operation is one of a kind. The visitor can shop through a wide range of pastas, meats, fish, wine, beers, vegetables and fruit and try most of them in mini-restaurants in each area. Most of the foods are organic and from local farms. It’s quite an operation and several are due to open in the U.S. beginning next year.
2006 Opus One Arrives
Opus One 2006 - Napa
“Not surprisingly, the 2006 is a bigger, more muscular, less charming effort displaying unbridled power, full-bodied richness, and notes of new saddle leather, black fruits, roasted herbs, and burning embers. Powerful and rich with sweet tannin, low acidity, and more structure and density than the 2005 as well as less nuance and complexity, the 2006 should be consumed over the next 15+ years.
With a new winemaking team in place, and no longer any influence from the Mondavis, it is ironic that Opus One appears to have produced its greatest trilogy of vintages to date. This wine has always been more about sizzle than substance. While some top wines have emerged, others have been riddled with brett as well as lacking in concentration. That accusation can not be made against any of these three vintages. 94”
Wine Advocate
#615905 $179.99
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